Worm composting, what is the yellow liquid?

I saw on Victory Garden when the host was talking about worm composting he poured out this yellow type liquid and said to use it dilute it to one part liquid to 20 parts water. Where did the liquid come from? Exactly what is it? My worm compost only has dark brown almost black fertilizer. Where did this liquid come from and why don’t I have it? lol Thanks for the help!

I didn’t see the Victory Garden show about this. However I believe it’s worm tea, the liquid part of excrement. If you have a pre built plastic worm bin, there should be a spigot at the bottom of it. This is to drain off the tea, otherwise the bedding becomes too wet and the worms can die from drowning. This tea is then diluted as they said on VG and used to water your plants. It is wonderful fertilizer.

Posted on February 26th, 2010 by admin and filed under worm compost | 2 Comments »

Has anyone done a business plan for worm composting?

I’m doing a project in one of my classes. I’m having trouble figuring out what the direct costs are for compost, worm casting, and worm tea . Most of the materials (as far a I can understand) are depreciated. Anyway, I would greatly appreciate your input. Furthermore, if you own a compost business I would like to know the general amount of startup costs (just to make sure I’m on the right track). Thanks.

Of course, you must choose the amount

Posted on February 24th, 2010 by admin and filed under worm compost | 1 Comment »

Can a bin compost work without putting worms?

Hi I want to make a bin compost, the ingredients are paper, cart board, water, dirt, and leftover. Will it work without worms? Will they grow worms in there? What will happen there?

The other answers are completely wrong. There are several different types of composting. One is worm composting but another is just natural bin composting. You really should add other natural materials to get your compost going such as: grass clippings, dead flowers, sawdust, rotten fruits and vegetables, coffee grinds (including paper filters), etc. I have a bin compost such as the one you are discussing (as do many people I know) and it works great. The materials will give off natural heat as they break down which will speed up how fast everything breaks down, additionally, it will also create enough heat to keep rodents away and the smell down. Make sure to turn the pile occassionally and if it is dry add a bit of moisture to it. If you do have problems starting the pile then by all means you can purchase a compost starter at any garden center as one of the other answers mentioned. Good luck. Check out some of these links for help.

http://getready2garden.com/page6.html – there are some helpful articles here and some more here:
http://getready2garden.com/page4.html

Posted on January 26th, 2010 by admin and filed under worm compost | 4 Comments »

Should you put worms in your compost pile?

I just started a compost pile.
There’s so many leaves and stuff and grass clippings around my house I put them all into a HUGE pile, I mean huge.
Anyways, I heard it was good to put worms in there. If so, what kind?
Any tips for a compost pile?
Oh, and where can you get the worms?

You don’t have to put worms in with grass, clipping and leaves , there will be a great number of what Anglers call Canadian Night Crawlers just gravitate to your pile I highly recommend turning the pile often it will facilitate rapid decomposition, and you can remove the castings to where you want them and put in more material, anything other than meat scraps is ok. The more work you put in the better. Personally since I use horse and rabbit manure, I have what is called a red wiggler, it is not needed in your bed, because essentially it is a manure worm. If you ever get a good source of straw, I don’t’ know what it is about the stuff but when decomposing it one will often attrack what is called a Georgia Jumper, very entertaining touch it and it will flip all over the place. I’m a large gardener been in the worm business selling to bait shops in years past. Even raised crickets, but you don’t have to add worms, if it makes you feel better when it floods and you have those things crawling everywhere collect a few and put in your bed. But you will have plenty anyway.

Posted on January 15th, 2010 by admin and filed under worm compost | 7 Comments »

What would you like to ask? When you compost horse manure, how do you do it to make sure it is done properly?

My horses and our family live in Southern California and would like to recycle our horse manure as part of our home gardening system. I would like to make sure that the following pests are taken care of:

1. bermuda grass seed from hay 2. e. coli and other bacteria are managed 3. ph level correct 4. do I need to worry about horse intestinal worms when composting? You never see this topic in gardening books

You need to start off with a compost bin that is the proper size to enable the compost to reach the optimal temperature.
In a good working compost pile, the temperature can reach 150F +. This is good because this temperature will kill the weed seeds and any pathogens in the manure, as long as it isn’t carnivore (cats and dogs) or omnivore (pigs and humans). Carnivores and omnivores carry bacteria in their guts that are zoonotic (transmissible to humans). It takes even higher temperatures to kill these bacteria, and even then it is not recommended to use on food gardens.

I have built a 2 bin system, 4′x4′x’4′. This size allows the compost to build enough heat to do the job properly. You can make it bigger, but you must make sure you turn every part of it over so that it gets heated thoroughly.
The pile should be turned over every couple of weeks. To tell when to turn your pile you need to watch your temperature. They actually make compost thermometers. They look like oversized turkey thermometers.

If your manure is in wood shavings, you will want to add some blood meal to the compost. Blood meal will add the nitrogen that is needed to break down woody material. You don’t have to add any kind of compost starter because the manure itself will have enough bacteria in it by itself. There are three stages to compost breakdown. The first stage the compost is heating up. This all works through bacterial action. Then another sort of bacteria begins its stage and heats the compost even higher. It will reach a peak after about 2 weeks and the temperature will start to drop. Then a third type of bacteria takes over and completes the process.
Turning your compost is an important part of the process. It allows the compost to heat back up again and the decomposition goes much faster. When the temperature drops, it is time to turn your compost over. This is why I have 2 bins – I can turn the compost into the empty one to start the process over again. If you have the room, I would build a third bin to store the finished compost. To check the pH, you need a pH test kit.

So, all your questions are answered because of the heat the pile generates. I am including a link to the compost thermometer.

http://www.leevalley.com/garden/page.aspx?c=2&p=57098&cat=2,33140&ap=1

Posted on December 12th, 2009 by admin and filed under worm compost | 3 Comments »

My worm compost does not smell great, Help?

I have been keeping a worm compost for a few years, and it does not normally smell very much or even at all. I think I loaded up one of the stacked bins too much and now I have a yucky smell in my kitchen, almost like the smell of dog poop. If memory serves I have allowed anaerobic bacteria to multiply by filling it too much and quickly. There are very few worms in that bin, if any. It is now on the bottom. So I guess it is not getting much air, either. What can I do to deal with the problem? Is there anything that will absorb the scent or bring the compost environment back to normal?
I live in Quebec, so it gets very cold in the winter. The red wiggler worms are tropical, and can’t survive the cold. Also, you only get extra critters with outdoor composts ;) I know this from having put it outside one summer.
Also, you can add meat and such to worm composts. It’s not like a regular compost. They eat everything. You just have to bury it well so that it does not smell. Still, that is not what I did to cause my current compost stinkiness :)

You may need to take some of the food out if there is still way too much. Then add lots of shredded paper and loosen the bedding up to get some air moving around in there. Also, if the moisture level is too wet, you may need to add dry leaves and newspaper. It should be like a damp sponge. If there are no worms in there, then you will definitely need to get some!

Posted on November 23rd, 2009 by admin and filed under worm compost | 2 Comments »

Help! I’m trying to start my own "worm farm" to make composted soil but when I took the lid off the bucket I

but when I took the lid off the bucket I noticed fruitflies and MOULD and the soil was really really getting wet. Will this hurt the red wigglers and if I take the lid off will they ESCAPE? Should I just leave them to do their thing? Should I cover the pail with dark cloth instead?
Do the worms create more moisture? ( the initial soil I used was a little damp) and how often should I split the worm population?

You need to look up raising worms. I always thought that you used a two layer. screen bottomed box that the air can get it.. and put shredded paper in it with a little soil. drop you compost from the kitchen in it for them to eat.. if they get to wet they will die and rot. that is where you fruitflies are coming from i would imagine.. the fresh droppings from the worms will go down in to the second tray and drop through into a box underneath. you will have to keep giving them fresh shredded paper and keep them supplied in compost.. to make this work. do not put meat in with it.
Your trays should have a lid to keep the worms in. if the paper drys out get a spray bottle and keep it a little bit damp..
you should have very good compost coming up soon but get them out of that wet bucket or you will lose them all..
just my opinion ..
search the web for raising red worms.
didn’t you get instructions when you got them..?
this is what i would do anyway.. always wanted my own compost makers.
let me know how it works for you?

Posted on November 6th, 2009 by admin and filed under worm compost | 3 Comments »

Worm Compost – Worms Escaping?

I have a worm compost that I am trying to start, and my worms are trying to escape! They have been trying for a while, but it was just a few ( like 10 per day). This morning, however, there were two HUGE clumps of them near the top of the bin. Fewer were trying to escape through the drainage holes in the bottom. I did notice that it looked like little particles of sand had spilled through the bottom, and I did not put any sand in the bin, so I am concerned about them. I recently had to re-start my bin because it had become infested with fruit flies to the point where their eggs were everywhere and it was very bad. I got that figured out, and re-started the bin with fresh newspaper and some dirt etc. Maybe the sand came from the dirt, as our soil is rather sandy. They aren’t eating the banana peels that I put in there for them (literally, there were no worms on them this morning, and I put them in two nights ago) and they were all at the top of the bin.

What am I doing wrong?

If you are not using Red Wiggler worms, that could be your problem. Different types of worms have favorite foods and habitats and Red Wigglers are definitely the best worms for composting. The most significant characteristic of Red Wigglers is that they like it dark and they hate the light, so during the day, they are going to want to stay in the bin. Some other worms are accustomed to light, so they may feel free to leave. Red Wigglers also have an ideal digestive system for composting.

I have heard that occasionally Red Wigglers will even try to escape when they are first put into a new environment (usually after being shipped), but they settle down quickly. You can try keeping a light on at night until the problem subsides.

I wouldn’t worry about the sand – it will actually help the worms digest what they eat. If you didn’t cut up your banana peels, try that. Worms will eventually eat it, but they do like smaller pieces.

Good luck.

Posted on October 30th, 2009 by admin and filed under worm compost | 2 Comments »

Do you have a compost heap, worm farm or both?

It makes such a difference to the garden – I can’t believe people would put their kitchen and green waste in the garbage (obviously unless you live in an apartment)

Yes I have both however I also have an extra that I call my ‘Garden Soup’. Garden Soup consists of a large bucket with a lid filled to the brim with ALL your green waste, bulbs – yes onion weed bulbs and oxalis all go into the bin. Fill with water and let it sit for about a week or so, your nose will tell you when this is ready. Smells just like fresh horse manure. You may need to water this down a bit, me – I just water it on straight. My household only puts our garbage bins out once per month. You should see my garden, and I live in Qld. We are on Level 3 water restrictions- bucketing only.
Oh…some people don’t know that you do not put dairy and or meat products in your compost.

Posted on October 23rd, 2009 by admin and filed under worm compost | 14 Comments »

Help! There are worms coming from my compost bin, why is this happening and how can i fix it!?

We have a closed/animal proof compost bin outside in our backyard. This is our first time composting, so we’re newbies. We haven’t had any problems with it until lately we’ve been noticing black worms in our backyard! Now, especially that it’s raining, they’re everywhere!! What is going on?!
edit: i think these worms are actually "black soldier fly larvae" either way, what should i do to get rid of these pests?!

You want worms in your compost, they help break it down.

You only get magots if you add animal products like meat or fat.
You don’t want that in a compost anyway, they tell you not to add that kind of stuff.

Posted on October 21st, 2009 by admin and filed under worm compost | 3 Comments »