White Ceramic Compost Pail
http://www.cleanairgardening.com/ceramic-compost-crock.html
This white ceramic compost pail holds one gallon of material and features a charcoal filter that helps eliminate any smell. Like most compost pails, it serves the function of dropping off your kitchen scraps and then taking them to your compost pile or compost bin every few days or so. If you’re a little klutzy, you might want to consider a stainless steel or bamboo compost pail instead. Overall though, this is an excellent compost pail for your kitchen, and a wonderful addition to home composting.
For more information on this compost pail, please click the link at the top of this video description. Thank you.
Duration : 0:2:20
The Secrets Behind A Great Compost Program
Composting is a way of getting in touch with nature. Stay away from the chemically enhanced fertilizers at the stores. You can make your own fertilizer through a process known as composting. In the process you will probable have the opportunity to get down on your knees and get your hands a dirty, and nothing is dirtier than compost.
Compost is the process where biodegradable materials are turned into a soil like substance. The material is mixed with air, water, nitrogen in the proper proportions. The result is a compost material that will serve as a soil conditioner, mulch, and fertilizers. It will feed your garden soil the microorganism that plants need to grow strong and healthy.
When starting a compost program it is best to find a spot close to your garden, but some where concealed from plain site. When you show people your beautiful garden you do not want the first thing they see to be your compost heap. They are practical but not very pretty.
After you decide on a suitable area you will start the pile with green and brown organic materials. Green materials are high in nitrogen while the brown material contain lots of carbon. These two elements form the basic foundation of a compost pile.
A properly formed compost pile will not give off any odors. When the ratio of green and brown materials are correct the pile will not emit any odors. Compost should have an earthy smell and not that of rotting material. If the latter is present then something may be in the pile that should not be there or the ratio of green and brown material is off.
Adding some finished compost to the mix helps to kick start the composting program. This will help start the microbial activities in a compost pile.
Make sure that the pile is moist. Keeping the compost pile damp will help to quicken the breakdown of the organic materials. Add water to the pile it should be damp like a sponge
Producing compost is really a pretty simple matter. It just takes a little know how and a fair amount of time.
Composting Worms
http://www.WormFarmer.net you can begin composting worms as soon as today! Visit our website for a free instructional video demonstration on how to start composting worms now.
Duration : 0:0:19
Squash Vermicomposting
Fun experiment to see how long it would take my composting worms to turn fresh butternut squash (and cardboard) into compost.
Duration : 0:2:29
How to Compost : Learn Organic Garden Composting Online : How to Plant with Compost
Using compost in your garden can make your flowers and plants thrive! Get tips on planting with compost and mixing compost with soil in your garden in this free organic composting video.
Expert: Gale Gassiot
Bio: Gale Gassiot makes her own organic compost or “gardener’s black gold.”
Duration : 0:0:59
Recycled Plastic Compost Bin product video
Learn about the Recycled Plastic Composter, available from cleanairgardening.com.
Duration : 0:1:39
Big Round Composter product video
Learn about the Big Round Compost Bin, available from cleanairgardening.com
Duration : 0:2:24
How Do You Harvest Worms
http://www.vermiculturenorthwest.com My harvesting method is
Duration : 0:3:51
Vermicomposting Results: Barb Finnin Measures Us Up
We’ve been composting in our homemade worm bin for 5 months now. Through trials and tribulations, we’ve learned a lot about the right environment for worms! In fact we experimented so much, that we managed to decimate our entire worm population. *Sigh*. Master composter and Freshtopia diva, Barb Finnin, came by to see how our worm bin was doing after all this time. Thank goodness she was so encouraging! She helped us haul our semi-composted compost (and dead worm population) to our new backyard composting bins where it can still be useful. We also get a look at a Wriggly Wranch-a multi-layered worm bin that our neighbors purchased at a discount from our county waste management. Seems that if you can get the discount, the layered method is the way to go. We will try again using homemade methods, but this time we’ll have a little bit more knowledge to keep our worms alive. Thanks Barb!
Duration : 0:5:5
How to Make a Worm Compost Bin – Cheap and Easy
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Obtain a worm bin.
* These can be purchased from many online vendors or your local gardening or farm supply store.
* You can build your own. Use rubber storage totes, galvanized tubs, wood, or plastic.
Material: Rubber is cheap, easy to use and durable. Galvanized tubs are somewhat costly but will last forever. Wood will eventually be eaten, and plastic cracks easily, but either will do in a pinch.
Drilling holes to ventilate a rubber tub.
Ventilation: Your bin should be well-ventilated, with several 1/8 inch (3mm) holes 4 inches (100mm) from the bottom (otherwise the worms will stay at the bottom of the bin and you may drown your worms). For example, you can build a worm bin out of a large plastic tub with several dozen small holes drilled out on the bottom and sides.
o Size: The larger you make the container, the more worms it can sustain. Estimate 1 pound (0.45kg) of worms (1,200) for every square foot of surface area. The maximum productive depth for your bin is 24 inches (61cm) deep because composting worms will not go further down than that.
o Cover: The bin should have a cover to prevent light from getting in and to prevent the compost from drying out. Choose or make a lid that can be removed if your compost is too wet. Use a canvas tarp, doubled over and bungee-corded on, or kept in place with wood. Burlap sacks also work well, and can be watered directly.
* Use 4 old car tires: To make a four-tire wormery, create a base from old bricks or flagstones (must be flat and with as few cracks as possible). Place a layer of heavy newspaper on top of the bricks. Stuff four old tires with newspapers. Pile the tires on top of each other, with the first tire on the Sunday newspaper. Put some scrunched up paper or cardboard in the bottom to soak up any excess liquid. Fill the tire wormery with organic material (semi-composted is best). Add the composting worms (tiger or brandling species are best). Use a piece of board weighed down with bricks as a lid. The lid must be big enough to stop rain getting in. Harvest a tire’s worth of fertilizer roughly every 8 weeks (during warm months).
Shredded newspaper for worm bedding.
Prepare the box for worms. Fill your bin with thin strips of unbleached corrugated cardboard or shredded newspaper, straw, dry grass, or some similar material. This provides a source of fiber to the worms and keeps the bin well-ventilated. Sprinkle a handful of dirt on top, and thoroughly moisten. Allow the water to soak in for at least a day before adding worms. You can also use Canadian peat moss, which is more expensive but yields a loamier vermicompost.
Worms arrive.
Get worms. There are several varieties of worms that that are bred and sold commercially for vermicomposting; just digging up earthworms from your backyard is not recommended. The Internet or local gardening club is your best bet for finding a worm vendor near you. The worms most often used, Eisenia foetida (Red Wigglers), are about 4 inches long, mainly red along the body with a yellow tail. Another variety to consider are Eisenia hortensis, known as “European Night crawlers.” They do not reproduce quite as fast as the red wigglers, but grow to be larger, eat courser paper and cardboard better, and seem to be heartier. They are also better fishing worms when they do reach full size. However, with any non-native species, it is important not to allow them to reach the wild. Their voracious appetites and reproductive rates (especially among the red wigglers) have been known to upset the delicate balance of the hardwood forests by consuming the leaf litter too quickly. This event leaves too little leaf letter to slowly incubate the hard shelled nuts and leads to excessive erosion as well as negatively affecting the pH of the soil. So, do your best to keep them confined!
Feed your worms fruit and vegetable scraps and refresh the bedding as necessary.
Duration : 0:4:2